Sitting in the bar at Foundation prior to the show there is a laid back vibe, it feels right for Jasper Garvida though. His denouement as a designer is that of an easy flowing elegance. He will be a designer remembered for being in complete comfort of his direction. We often talk of “a voice” in fashion but its usually a cover for designer still heading towards a vision. Vision is much more key and while Jasper freely acknowledges how important his fashion journey has been, including time at McQueen, he has taken that and constructed Ethologie in his own beautiful image, his vision is the very label itself.
The House of Garvida is one built of his vision, the second part of this is his hunger to evolve that vision not just over time, but for each season. There is a thread that runs through his career as a designer but it’s moved, altered and spun to keep delivering the best he has. With this thought in my head the sense of ease is replaced as the show approaches with a growing excitement, what will this most mercurial of minds conjure forth?
As I look at my notes from the show, those scribbles I slam onto a page between models, yes some of us are still wedded to the traditions of the era of Miller and Mirabella, they tell the story. Key words that define a collection are sometimes the perfect reminders of why you loved something and fell in love with it in that moment.
So what were those words?
Alive, Bounce, Flow, Geometric, Greys & Metallics, Cable Knits, Monochromes, Love Big Cowls, Natural, Soft, and oddly, like Vogue started the best damn cricket team of all time.
That applies to a beautiful white sleeveless jumper as graceful and perfect as the 143 the recently departed Martin Crowe scored at Lords in 1994.Yes I did just compare fashion and cricket, because I love both with all my heart.
This autumn and winter will be monochrome, but it won’t be dull, it’s use across this and other collections hints that it will be softened away from straight black and white. The metallics, well they add the sparkle to break the looks away from their surroundings, and of course the big knits because being as snuggly as a toastie warm bed on a Sunday morning should still apply to rocking a look.
And of course it’s rocking a look, its Jasper Garvida, fun statement pieces are what he does, and does so well. It’s why I love him and what he does. He’s the current FashionWorked Independent Designer Of The Year, LFW was cut off point for the next one, this collection is once again so good that it won’t be a surprise to see him on the short-list again in a few weeks.